In the early days of the spring when not much blooms, we are clutching at straws – and I’ll agree that anything that might resemble a rose, in a certain light, when we are feeling extra hopeful, could be called a rose. But that which we call a Lenten, or even a Christmas rose is not a rose at all, no matter how desperate we are. Hellebores might resemble roses a bit, but they are actually members of the family Ranunculaceae, which includes buttercups, delphiniums and clematis. So roses they technically aren’t, but they are beginning to rival them in their beauty these days. I have a place (a shady spot) in my heart for hellebores, especially the simple types that shyly hang their heads – so that the best way to see them is either to lie down, or cut them on very short stalks and place the flowers face up in a bowl of water. These evergreen beauties have risen now though, from their humble wildflower beginnings,

where they quietly eked it out among the trees and have come out of the shade to become one of the most fashionable plants for winter and early spring. Added to this they are easy to grow, put up with all kinds of conditions, including dreaded dry shade, and don’t succumb to many pests or diseases, making hellebores a Lenten treat we should not give up.

The low growing varieties that rise straight up from the ground are the Christmas rose Helleborus niger – flowers in winter and usually white – or the Lenten rose, Helleborus orientalis, blooming in spring in a wide range of colours from palest cream through to deep burgundy, almost black.

Other types of hellebore are shrubbier and the flowers appear on branching stems. The prickly, but architectural Helleborus argutifolius, originally from Corsica, has wonderful lime green bracts from February through to the end of April. Another good one for a shadier spot is our native Helleborus foetidus – or the stinking hellebore. It doesn’t smell of anything to me, really, but the smell is supposed to resemble roast beef flavour crisps, which is – who would have guessed? – wildly attractive to insects. The foliage alone of these taller varieties will add structure and interest throughout the year, making them very useful in woodland settings.

Hellebores are a promiscuous bunch, which helps the breeders, who have been spending the last few years developing some amazing new cultivars.

The new hybrids have mainly arisen from the species Helleborus orientalis (the Lenten Rose), to the point where the original orientalis has been lost and they are now just called Helleborus hybridus. Here are a few of the best:

  • Helleborus ‘Harvington Shades of Night’ – a sumptuous deep-purple variety with outward-facing flowers, this will add a touch of drama to winter borders, but be careful not to plant in too shady a situation, or they will disappear into the gloom.
  • Helleborus ‘Moondance’ – creamy white blooms with a hint of green, a really good one for bringing light and elegance to shady spots.
  • Helleborus ‘Anna’s Red’ – this is probably my favourite, with rich crimson flowers and pretty marbled foliage.
  • Helleborus ‘Double Ellen Picotee’ – double the amount of petals make this one almost frilly. The flowers are white edged with pink.

Because they flower so early in the season, hellebores and other woodland flowers are a lifeline for the first bumblebees that emerge in winter and early spring. Bumblebees are fairly hardy insects, kept warm in their little furry coats and are often seen buzzing around in the cold.

This won’t bother them too much, but they will quickly starve if there isn’t a source of nectar around. Hellebores are brilliant nectar providers and, because most are open, single flowers, they act like a platform, making them easy for big bees to land on. In addition to lifesaving nectar, hellebores have tough evergreen leaves that will also provide sheltering places for creatures that can safely

nestle down at the base of the stems away from predators and the worst of the weather.


Hellebores mix beautifully with other woodland and shade-loving plants to create a tapestry of colour at the base of trees and shrubs. Early spring companions include snowdrops (Galanthus), cyclamen, and some species of daffodil. These will contrast in texture and colour to enhance the hellebore blooms. Extend the season of interest by combining them with ferns, hostas, and evergreen grasses. The large leaves of Rodgersia or Brunnera will also create a textural contrast with the hellebore foliage.

Unlike so many woodland plants that either disappear back into the soil when the going gets tough, or creep about stealthily among other plants, hellebores brave all weathers and grow steadily to form demure clumps, relying on their dark leathery leaves to sustain and protect them through the periods of dry shade that occur once the leaves come out on the trees above. If the old hellebore leaves start to look tatty, or get black blotches (caused by a fungal infection, that won’t kill the plant, but looks unsightly) do cut them off. This is best done in winter before the flower shoots and new leaves appear. A position with dappled light beneath deciduous trees or shrubs is an ideal planting place, as it provides shade in summer and allows sunlight through in winter and early spring when they’re flowering. Hellebores prefer rich, well-draining soil with plenty of organic matter, so add compost or leaf mould when planting and mulch regularly.

They tolerate a range of soil types, but will be happiest in neutral to slightly alkaline conditions. Once established they will put up with periods of drought and thrive – where many others won’t – under the dappled shade of trees and shrubs.

Hellebores have a tendency to self-seed, often creating a carpet of young plants around the parent. They are expensive plants and it is tempting to leave them, but before we get too excited about creating a hellebore nursery, remember that because they are open pollinated, they will be variable and not necessarily turn out to be the same as the original. I have nurtured many hellebore seedlings that end up as insipid muddy brown colours – and then haven’t the heart to dig them up – so maybe it’s best to weed out our babies.
These stalwarts are long-lived plants and will form clumps that, like most perennials, can be lifted and divided every few years. This is a more reliable method for increasing stocks and ensures that they stay true to form. Do this as soon as you can after they’ve finished flowering.
Whether gracing a woodland corner or brightening a shady border or simply in a container, with their understated elegance, these reliable and increasingly colourful flowers are hard to beat – and it is for good reason that they’ve become garden mainstays. Tough, versatile, and beautiful, hellebores are beginning to rival their summer cousins – and in looks, if not scent (perhaps that’s coming next?), are now truly worthy of their name ‘rose’.

Jo’s new gardening courses are now booking. Call 07923 969634 or see hornbrookmanor.co.uk.


Frozen Scents

Jo Arnell brings pockets of joy to the winter garden with her recommendations for fine fragrances The bleak end of winter can bring the coldest weather, the gloomiest skies and the sinking feeling that spring is never coming back. This...

The gardening year

Jo Arnell shares her tasks, tips and seasonal joys for the year ahead We start to groan under the weight of all our January plans, but the lovely thing about the garden in winter is that it is asleep and...

How does your garden grow?

Jo Arnell gives her advice for identifying your gardening style If you’ve ever taken a personality test, you’ll be familiar with the questions that try to fit your characteristics into a type – or none of the above, if you...